Showing posts with label museum of youth culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label museum of youth culture. Show all posts

1 Nov 2026

Reflections on the Museum of Youth Culture Exhibition 'God Save the Queens' & How You Too Will Learn to Live the Lie

Flyer for the God Save the Queens exhibition 
 
"The exhibition challenges traditional punk narratives by placing the women 
who helped shape the movement at the centre of the story: not as 
footnotes to punk history, but as some of its defining creative forces." [1]
 
 
I. 
 
Last week I went to a private viewing of the current exhibition showing at the Museum of Youth Culture [2]. God Save the Queens brings together rare and previously unseen artwork, photography, and personal archival material celebrating the women who shaped punk's look, sound, and cultural history.  
 
The exhibition is curated by Up Yours! - a non-profit, multimedia and art collective founded by Celeste Bell and others [3] to honour punk rock's female pioneers, who are now characterised as she-punks, whereas, back in the day, they were known by the rather less savage and much prettier sounding title of punkettes [4].
 
According to the Up Yours! mission statement, the aim is to "preserve, celebrate, and spotlight the under-appreciated music, literature, film, fashion, and visual art of women who shaped punk and DIY counterculture over the last 50 years". 
 
Which is all very admirable, though I would challenge the premise that the role played by women in punk - and the artwork produced by them - has been underappreciated or overlooked. It's Westwood, not McLaren, whom the fashion world idolises and I would suggest more people are familiar with the faces of Jordan and Soo Catwoman than those of Cook and Jones.     
 
 
II. 
 
But let's not quibble on this point. It's clear that the curators of the exhibition are pushing this tired narrative and continue to derive a certain amount of speaker's benefit [5] from it, so good luck to 'em! 
 
What concerned me more is how the show recreates a boring class system, with all the stars and usual suspects given centre stage (or, in this case, wall space). Meanwhile, actual punk youth is tokenistically given a couple of small boards on which to share their images and stories. For me, this goes against the punk ethos where 'anyone could be a Sex Pistol' and the audience mattered as much - if not more - than the performers.
 
In other words, my real issue with God Save the Queens is how easily a counterculture built on the erasure of hierarchy has been restratified [6] and - what's that word the Situationists liked to use? - ah yes, récupérated [7]. And recuperated with the curatorial connivance of the children of the punk revolution!   
 
 
III. 
 
Having said that - and here's the twist - I enjoyed the exhibition and because I wanted to memorialise an old friend, I even have a photo included in it myself [8]. And so I am, arguably, at some level complicit with - or at the very least caught within the wheels of - the culture industry's recuperative nostalgia. 
 
Similarly, thanks to my involvement with the Punk Scholars Network and the Subcultures Interest Group, I'm an uneasy collaborator with the academic recuperation of punk [9].
 
As The Pop Group once sang: We are all prostitutes / everyone has their price ... And we shall be hypocrites, hypocrites, hypocrites [10]. 
 
 
Notes
 
[1] This quote is taken from the exhibition's promotional material and curatorial statement, framing God Save the Queens as a radical reclamation of space. As we shall see, the reality on the gallery walls tells a somewhat different story. 
 
[2] Just a few minutes' walk from Camden Road station, the Museum of Youth Culture moved to its now permanent location at 51 St. Pancras Way, London NW1 in June of this year, after operating previously as a pop-up museum in various temporary spaces. 
 
[3] Filmmaker and writer Celeste Bell is the daughter of Poly Styrene, which explains why the exhibition is primarily dedicated to the legacy of the late singer, songwriter, and frontwoman of X-Ray Spex. Ms Bell co-founded Up Yours! with Lauren Estelle Jones (yes, Mick's daughter) and the writer, musician and punk professor Vivien Goldman. 
      While Bell and Jones cannot help being the children of punk royalty, we cannot ignore how this lineage grants them the institutional access and cultural authority to determine the narrative. The paradox of an egalitarian counterculture being archived and gatekept by a hereditary hierarchy is central to the exhibition's structural tension. 
 
[4] The term she-punk was coined by Helen Reddington and later popularised by Vivien Goldman as an alternative to punkette and is presumably meant to sound a bit more spiky and savage, although it does make me think of Jennifer Walters and we might question this rejection of the feminine diminutive form; does it mark a victory for women or might it not be seen as an unintended reinforcement of the masculine? 
 
[5] This phrase, coined by Michel Foucault, is a critical component of his critique of l'hypothèse répressive. In brief, certain groups and individuals love believing they have been repressed and marginalised because it yields le bénéfice du locuteur - that is to say, an immediate emotional and political reward that one receives simply by daring to speak openly about a taboo subject or some past injustice. In this case, the Up Yours! Collective want to pretend they are defying the patriarchy and refusing to be silenced - as if they are outside of power and ushering in a liberated and more diverse, equitable, and inclusive future. And they do so with the kind of moral solemnity that some of the original punks would have been appalled by.  
      In sum, speaker's benefit gives the gratification of feeling like a rebel simply by talking about something that power structures and institutions actually want you to talk about and provide the material resources that enable you to do so. See Michel Foucault, The History of Sexuality 1: The Will to Knowledge, trans. Robert Hurley (Penguin Books, 1998). 
 
[6] The sociological concept of restratification refers to the process of a movement such as punk shifting from a flat, egalitarian ideal back into a strict hierarchy. According to Robert Michels, there is an iron law of oligarchy determining this outcome. 
      Thus, as we see at the God Save the Queens exhibition, there are professionally taken photographs of punk icons (the creators and trendsetters) individually framed and carefully hung on the walls, signifying that the subject has cultural value and historical importance (not to mention aura and agency). And then there are snapshots of punk fans (the consumers and fashion followers) randomly collaged together on boards so that their individuality is reduced and they serve only to provide a little authenticity to the event. 
      Of course, to be fair to the curators, there was always a punk elite and in order for a museum to put on an exhibition of something as chaotic as punk they have to make it intelligible to a viewing public and so naturally apply their own bureaucratic (and commercial) metrics; identify the leaders and the marketable faces, etc. 
 
[7] Recuperation is the process by which politically radical ideas and images are co-opted and commodified by the powers that be, thereby neutralising them. In this case, it's the appropriation of punk (and youthful rebellion) by the culture industry. 
 
[8] The picture is of Lorrie Millington - see the sister post to this one titled 'Lorrie and the She-Punks' (30 Oct 2026). 
 
[9] See the post titled 'On Torn Edges and the Need to Archive' (25 March 2024) in which I share thoughts on the PSN. And to access a number of posts that detail my involvement with SIG and its annual publication SIG News go to torpedotheark.blogspot.com/search/label/subcultures%20interest%20group 
 
[10] Lyrics from 'We Are All Prostitutes', by The Pop Group, (Rough Trade, 1979).  
 
 

30 Oct 2026

Lorrie and the She-Punks (In Memory of My Beautiful Friend)

Lorrie Millington 
Artist, Model, Dancer, Writer
 
 
It's vital to remember those whom we have loved: and to love those whom we remember. 
 
So I am grateful to the curators of the God Save the Queens exhibition currently showing at the Museum of Youth Culture for affording me the opportunity to include the above photograph of Lorrie Millington taken in a time that is now long ago, but not quite lost. 
 
Displayed in the company of many other young women that the Up Yours! Collective insist on calling she-punks [1], I hope she feels she is among friends. 
 
Some of these women are famous, some anonymous; some dead, some still alive and kicking. But all are beautiful in the eyes of their friends and family who remember them.
 
 
Typical Girls [2] on a display board 
at the Museum of Youth Culture
 
 
Notes
 
[1] The term she-punk was coined by Helen Reddington and later popularised by Vivien Goldman as an alternative to punkette and is presumably meant to sound a bit more spiky and savage, although it does make me think of Jennifer Walters and we might question this rejection of the feminine diminutive form; does it mark a victory for women or might it not be seen as an unintended reinforcement of the masculine? 
 
[2] The link is to the single by the Slits of that title, released from their debut album Cut (Island Records, 1979). 
 
 
For a rather more critical engagement with the God Save the Queens exhibition, please click here.
 
 

5 Jul 2026

SIG News 5 Manifesto: A Friendly Deconstruction

SIG Manifesto 
(SIG News 5: September 2026)
 
 
I.
 
The new, bumper edition of SIG News (#5) is out now - arriving two months ahead of its cover date and two weeks ahead of its public launch at the Mausoleum - sorry, Museum - of Youth Culture (see below). Edited by the established team of Russ Bestley, Tim Gibney, Kevin Quinn and Roger Sabin, it assembles an eclectic mix of articles by a disparate group of authors from both within and without the University of the Arts London (UAL). 
 
By deliberately choosing the inky medium of an old-school, limited-run newspaper, SIG's explicit aim is to thumb its nose at mass circulation and the algorithmic curation of the online world. Anyone interested in the history and practice of music- and style-based subcultures is guaranteed to find something to excite them in this issue. 
 
However, it is the ever-changing SIG Manifesto, printed boldly on the back cover, which I invariably read first, and it's this ten-point text that I'd like to discuss - by which I mean deconstruct - here. Let us begin by looking at each point in turn, offering a brief response before building towards a critical overview of a text that functions as a public declaration of the Group's ideology. 
 
Ultimately, we are obliged to ask: does this text genuinely rally readers to radical action, or does it risk encouraging mere repetition of the same old inauthentic busyness [1] and the restless pursuit of novelty? 

 
II.
  
1. We at SIG News decree that the high-street purveyors of plainstream bad dreams dispense nothing more than tribal whorefare. A cavalcade of copycat caricatures and clone-clowns cascade across mediascapes devoid of depth and bereft of breadth.
 
Point 1 playfully, if somewhat aggressively, sets the tone: mock-authoritative, mock-confrontational, and mock-avant-garde, delivered with an over-reliance on alliteration and Situationist-style wordplay. 
 
Strip away the performative hostility, however, and it's a bog-standard critique of the Mainstream Media (MSM). It accuses the latter of lacking both substance and diversity whilst actively exploiting social divisions for profit (tribal whorefare), manufacturing systemic anxiety (bad dreams), and recycling formulaic content (copycat caricatures).

  
2. Scenes should be heard, not spread. 
 
Point 2 of the manifesto posits that for subcultures to remain authentic and flourish, they must foster local, organic connections through live performance, material publications (such as fanzines) and word-of-mouth, rather than engaging in global, digital dissemination. In line with subcultural theory, the statement also suggests that exposure via modern media causes rapid commodification and the loss of a scene's underground edge.
 
Ultimately, there's nothing virtual or viral about SIG News: it demands physical presence. Ironically, however, by demanding scenes remain localised, it inadvertently privileges those living in metropolitan cultural hubs whilst excluding the isolated, provincial outsider, i.e., the sort of poor sod stuck in the sticks or in some shitty seaside town that SIG often seems to champion.
  
 
3. Within the suffocating technological netweb 'DIY-bother' has become the despairing mantra of an autonomous muddleground desperate for something 'more'. 
 
Point 3 suggests that within a restrictive digital infrastructure, autonomous DIY culture has devolved into an exhausting, ineffective, and futile struggle - hence DIY-bother.
 
Whether we like it or not, platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube have successfully co-opted, neutralised, and commercialised creative independence, transforming the radical punk ethos of Do It Yourself into a neoliberal chore that demands constant content creation, algorithmic self-optimisation, and endless self-promotion.
 
Independent creators are left confused, isolated, and trapped on a digital muddleground - profoundly exhausted by the machinery of the burnout society [2], yet desperate for an authentic path forward that doesn't involve feeding the algorithm.
 
 
4. Be impossible, demand the unrealistic.
 
By reversing the famous Situationist slogan from May '68 - Soyez réalistes, demandez l'impossible - this point serves as an update appropriate to the age of capitalist realism [3]. It is a potent mix of defensive absurdism and revolutionary desire for alternatives in an era dominated by the mantra there is no alternative.
 
By becoming-impossible, one becomes capricious and unclassifiable and thus useless to systems that rely on reliable data and predictive modelling. By demanding the unrealistic, one asks for the very things that consumer capitalism cannot commodify or deliver: silence, secrecy, and stillness.
 
   
5. It is absolutely normal to be resolutely on the outside of anything and everything. 
 
Point 5 normalises and validates splendid isolation and magnificent marginalisation, asserting that refusing to belong to any mainstream group, trend, or digital network is a completely valid way to live. 
 
This position is arguably more countercultural than subcultural. For in actively rejecting anything and everything one acknowledges that even the most radical subcultural movements will eventually be compromised, co-opted, and commodified. 
 
However, in affirming such an extreme model of individualistic detachment, it becomes politically problematic for those of a more socialist persuasion who believe that it requires collective power (i.e., solidarity with others) to build lasting alternative structures.  
 
  
6. Inspiration + imagination x application = no sweat.
 
Quite possibly, this is the point I dislike the most. It reads like an uninspired motivational slogan dreamed up by some corporation trying to sound knowledgeable about the creative process. Ironically, it undermines SIG's own depiction of cultural production as involving a good deal of sweat (not to mention blood and tears). Only artificially intelligent machines don't sweat.   
 
If I were to be generous, I might accept that the author of this manifesto is attempting to subvert the capitalist no pain, no gain work mantra. In other words, they might be trying to say that when one is genuinely inspired, creative work ceases to feel like alienated, exhausting labour. 
 
However, by dressing this concept up as a reductive, pseudo-logical mathematical formula they have ended up producing a trite, neoliberal slogan that completely devalues the demanding reality of artistic practice.
 
 
7. Omniformed existences expire with no trace. A feast of spectres amasses. 
 
Jesus! Point 7 reads like gothic poetry as much as cultural theory. Nevertheless, the warning here is stark: if you allow yourself to be shaped entirely by the Matrix, your life will leave no lasting legacy; you will expire with no trace and the world will become haunted by the ghosts of mass-produced human entities who failed to realise their potential or blossom as individuals.
 
Put another way, it's arguing that total conformity leads to a form of spiritual and cultural death and what Mark Fisher would term lost futures.  
 
 
8. Humanarchism is the logical evolutionary step away from total disconnection towards renewed social connection. Unplug, turn off, conjoin in. 
 
Is humanarchism a SIG neologism? At any rate, it's a new word to me; a portmanteau blending humanism and anarchism which suggests that in order to survive the isolating effects of modern digital life, society must evolve a new philosophy that rejects technological control in favour of autonomous (and essentially analogue) human community. 
 
There's no point (and no fun) in being connected to networks if we are physically out of touch not only with other people, but with animals, plants, and objects. We need a form of libidinal materialism born of desire, not merely a new idealism. 
 
Unfortunately, whilst I approve of the necessary update to (and inversion of) Timothy Leary's famous countercultural mantra, I'm not sure humanarchism is the best term for this new philosophy. 
 
Also, one must ask how realistic is this as a solution; by simply instructing people to unplug and turn off the SIG manifestoists assume people can easily walk away from the digital infrastructures that control their jobs, bank accounts, and daily communication and make a nostalgic return to pre-internet socialising [4]. 
 
 
9. Renounce the over-the-counterculture. Spurn the splendour-vendors and venal frontiers. Difference is natural indifference.
 
I like that last sentence: Difference is natural indifference (even if, obviously, I think indifference is a highly stylised pose born of stoicism and dandyism and has nothing natural about it). Indifference, along with several other 'I' terms - irony, insouciance, insincerity - is one of my watchwords here on Torpedo the Ark (TTA). 
 
The starry individual does not care about being noticed or need to be validated. They are secure in their own distinctiveness and completely indifferent to mainstream trends, social media metrics, or corporate attempts to categorise them - and, as the rest of the point makes clear, they have renounced the over-the-counterculture too which all-too-often means pseudo-rebellion and commercialised bullshit sold by splendour-vendors (i.e., hucksters working in the advertising business or those in marketing who wish to build and promote brands).    
 
Of course, again, this sounds good - but it involves the same naive romanticism as we have encountered already; just because you choose to ignore the Matrix it doesn't mean you are outside of it; in capitalist reality, modern data tracking doesn't care if you are indifferent to it; the system still tracks your habits and monetises your lifestyle; it might frame your structural isolation and indifference, for example, as the adoption of a zen attitude (Would you like to buy a yoga mat?)   
  
 
10. Fashion is no more than a fleeting fad. Follow nothing except your shadow. Go forth and amplify. 
 
The SIG Manifesto ends with a tripartite series of slogans intended, one assumes, to inspire readers and incite them to acts of defiant rebellion. 
 
The third - Go forth and amplify - is simply a play on the biblical injunction given initially by God to Adam and Eve (Genesis 1:28) and then later repeated to Noah and his sons (Genesis 9: 7). I suppose it's encouraging us to find our own voices and to speak up (so is again at odds with the ethos of silence and shutting the fuck up promoted on TTA). 
 
The first sentence - Fashion is no more than a fleeting fad - is one that I'm astonished to see in a manifesto born of a university which includes the London College of Fashion as one of its six constituent colleges. Also, as the author of Philosophy on the Catwalk (2011), I am very much of the view that in fashion we can discover "all that men have thought, dreamed, done, and been" [5].
 
As for the fleeting character of fashion - or what we might term after Barthes the logic of fashion - isn't that its beauty and philosophical importance? Lars Svendsen is spot on when he writes: 
 
"Fashion does not have any telos, any final purpose, in the sense of striving for a state of perfection [...] The aim of fashion is rather to be potentially endless, that is it creates new forms and constellations ad infinitum." [6] 
 
This is why, one might suggest, the most interesting writings on fashion have tended to come from our poets and novelists; for "they alone are sufficiently free from its perceived triviality" [7]. 
  
As for the second sentence ... ironically, despite speaking of shadows, it's another essentialist injunction; for it is saying, is it not, be completely self-reliant and look only to your own true self for direction. One of the problems, however, is that Baudrillard powerfully illustrated how in an obscene hyperreal world and an era of total transparency, we have no shadows!  
 
So that's another issue - one of many - for the signatories of the SIG Manifesto to address ...
 
 
III.    
 
We are told to memorise the ten-point SIG Manifesto and ignore it at our peril. 
 
Obviously, this is said humorously - but, somehow, the text doesn't leave us smiling and I suspect that's because it functions primarily as an academic pastiche rather than a viable blueprint for contemporary cultural resistance. 
 
Whilst it accurately diagnoses the exhaustion inherent in a hyper-commodified digital landscape, its structural utility is limited by an outdated binary framework. It posits, for example, an enlightened avant-garde operating from an imaginary external position that ignores how modern capital functions through decentralized, participatory networks. 
 
Consequently, directives to unplug (Point 8) or remain on the Outside (Point 5) overlook the material reality that economic survival and communication are fundamentally embedded in digital infrastructure. Further, by framing resistance as a personal lifestyle choice, the manifesto risks falling into bourgeois individualism and what theorist Mark Fisher termed the privatisation of discontent, effectively atomising opposition rather than fostering collective solidarity.
 
Aesthetically, the wider SIG project draws heavily from historical precedents, specifically 1970s punk fanzines and 1990s culture jamming. The decision to print SIG News as a physical newspaper highlights a deliberate engagement with obsolete media forms, positioning the work closer to an archival art project than a contemporary subcultural critique. 
 
However, viewed through the lens of radical graphic design and visual history, the SIG Manifesto might be said to succeed on its own terms. For while it lacks a coherent political strategy for navigating an algorithmic mediascape and, theoretically, it has more holes than a proverbial piece of Swiss cheese, it functions effectively as a stylish conceptual provocation, illustrating the profound difficulty of offering meaningful resistance today. 
 
 
 
 
Notes
 
[1] Heidegger terms this Geschäftigkeit - a key concept introduced in Sein und Zeit (1927) as a structural component of Dasein's everyday manner of existing; i.e., constantly occupied with the immediate tasks at hand and numerous daily distractions. 
      For Heidegger, this relentless busyness is a coping mechanism; one that allows us to avoid confronting the deeper questions of our existence, including our own mortality. It is closely connected to his concept of Verfallen, wherein the individual tumbles into superficiality and evaluates their life simply by how much they are doing, losing their authentic self in the process. 
 
[2] The phrase Müdigkeitsgesellschaft was used by the philosopher Byung-Chul Han as the title of an essay first published in German in 2010 (the English translation by Erik Butler was published by Stanford University Press in 2015). 
      It might be noted that the term literally translates as fatigue society, but the word burnout - coined in 1970 by the German-born American psychologist Herbert Freudenberger to refer to a state of mental and physical exhaustion - arguably has greater contemporary resonance.     
      Readers who are interested can find a two-part post published on Torpedo the Ark back in November 2021 discussing Han's text: click here to access part one.  
 
[3] The phrase capitalist realism is, of course, forever associated with Mark Fisher; see his book of this title (Zero Books, 2009). The first of a three-part post written on this work published on Torpedo the Ark earlier this year can be accessed by clicking here. 
      In brief, capitalist realism refers to the fact that capitalism is more than an economic arrangement of society or a political ideology; that it has become a singular reality that is so all-encompassing that we mistake it for the natural order or inevitable way of the world. This, in turn, makes alternative models either unimaginable or seem foolish and utopian: 'It's easier to imagine the end of the world than the end of capitalism,' as Fisher famously puts it. 
  
[4] It must also be pointed out that in demanding that people gather and collaborate as what D. H. Lawrence would term a democracy of touch, point 8 is at odds with point 5 - remain a singular individual on the outside of everything.
 
[5] Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus, ed. Kerry McSweeney and Peter Sabor, (Oxford University Press, 2008), p. 57. 
      Admittedly, this novel derides those who would make of fashion the basis of all human experience, but, contrary to his own idealism, Carlyle is obliged to concede that clothes do play a crucial role in materially constituting the self.  
 
[6] Lars Svendsen, Fashion: A Philosophy, trans. John Irons, (Reaktion Books, 2006), p. 29.
 
[7] Roland Barthes, 'Language and Clothing', in The Language of Fashion, trans. Andy Stafford, ed. Andy Stafford and Michael Carter, (Berg, 2006), p. 21.