D. H. Lawrence: Letters from Malta

Postcard showing the Great Britain Hotel in Valletta, Malta, 

where D. H. Lawrence - pictured here in a passport from this period - 

stayed briefly in May 1920

 

"And the island is stark as a corpse, no trees, no bushes even: 

a fearful landscape, cultivated, and weary with ages of weariness ..."

 

 

In May 1920, D. H. Lawrence was once again gripped by the absolute necessity to move: "We're going to Malta tomorrow. Don't know why it seems so thrilling. Perhaps it'll be a fiasco." [1]

 

Despite the latter possibility, Malta was another Mediterranean island to tick off on his bucket list of must see places as part of his so-called savage pilgrimage.

 

And whilst Lawrence was aware of his own tendency to quickly become disillusioned with a place once he landed, he always loved setting sail: 

 

"How glad to be on a ship! What a golden hour for the heart of man! Ah if one could sail for ever, on a small quiet, lonely ship, from land to land and isle to isle, and saunter through the spaces of this lovely world ..." [2]

And so, on 18 May he left by steamer from Sicily for Malta, where he stayed at the Great Britain Hotel, in Valletta, enjoying eggs, bacon, and marmalade for breakfast and cream teas in the afternoon, like a true expat, even whilst writing after his return about how much he hated the Britishness of the island: 

 

"There is something so beneficient and sterile, a kind of barrenness about it. English people seem so good, and so barren of life." [3] 

 

The Britishness of Malta wasn't the only thing that Lawrence disliked, however. In the same letter to Marie Hubrecht, he notes: 

 

"The island is a glaring gritty dry yellow lump with hideous villages. Only Valletta harbour is beautiful, particularly at night." [4]  

Partly, one suspects that Lawrence's attitude was shaped by the fact that he was delayed leaving Malta after a couple days as planned, due to an Italian steamer strike. For at first he seemed relatively happy: 

"It is wonderfully nice here in Valletta: most astonishing of all the abundance of food and of all things to buy, and it seems so cheap after Italy, where the shops are bare." [5]

In a letter to his sister Emily, Lawrence also remarks on the attractiveness of the native women:

 

"The Maltese women all wear this black silk arrangement in the street - gives them a dark, eastern look." [6]

 

But being "stuck" on the island - despite the fact life was "very easy and pleasant" and Valletta "beautiful and gay" [7] - clearly irritated him (as did the dry heat) and his lasting impression of Malta is not that of a fascinating island of great cultural and historical importance [8], but of a strange and hateful place "that glares and sets your teeth on edge and is so dry that one expects oneself to begin to crackle" [9].  

 

Still, if nothing else, at least Lawrence had a rather elegant suit made of tussore silk whilst in Malta [10]. 

 

And his troublesome relationship with the tragi-comic figure of Maurice Magnus - with whom he and Frieda had sailed to the island - was resolved when the latter killed himself, still in Malta, a few months later [11].    

 

 

Notes

 

[1] D. H Lawrence, letter to Compton Mackenzie [16 May 1920], in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, Vol. III, ed. James T. Boulton and Andrew Robertson (Cambridge University Press, 1984), p. 527.

 

[2] D. H. Lawrence, Sea and Sardinia, ed. Mara Kalnins (Cambridge University Press, 1997), p. 47. Lawrence wrote those words when recalling his boat journey from Sicily to Sardinia in January 1921.

 

[3] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Marie Hubrecht (28 May 1920), in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, III. 533. 

      See also the letter to Catherine Carswell [28 May 1920] in which he writes: " I get set on edge by the British régime. It is very decent, I believe, but it sort of stops life, it prevents the human reactions from taking full swing [...] which simply arrests my digestion." [III. 534]

 

[4] Ibid. 

[5] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Emily King [20 May 1920], in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, III. 530.  

[6] Ibid. 

[7] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Jessica Brett Young [22 May 1920], in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, III. 530.

 

[8] Lawrence was not unaware of Malta's long history and geostrategic significance and seemed particularly struck by the ancient nature of the native tongue, Maltese; a Semitic language derived from late medieval Sicilian Arabic with Romance superstrata (and the only Semitic language to use the Latin alphabet). 

 

[9] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Catherine Carswell [28 May 1920], in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, III. 533-534. 

      See also the letter to Amy Lowell (1 June 1920), in which Lawrence writes: "We went to Malta, and it was so hot I feel quite stunned. I shouldn't wonder if my skin went black and my eyes went yellow, like a negro's." [III. 538]

 

[10] The suit cost £6, which is about £350 in today's money, so still a real bargain. Lawrence proudly mentions the suit to Jan Juta in a letter dated 13 June, 1920. See Letters, III. 552.

 

[11] I discuss Lawrence's relationship with Magnus in a post dated 14 June 2021: click here. 

      Those who are particularly interested in Lawrence's reaction to Malta are encouraged to read the relevant section of Lawrence's Introduction to Maurice Magnus's Memoirs of the Foreign Legion (1924), published as Memoir of Maurice Magnus in D. H. Lawrence, Introductions and Reviews ed. N. H. Reeve and John Worthen (Cambridge University Press, 2005). See pp. 53-58. The epigraph with which I open this post can be found on p. 57.

 

That City of Dreadful Night: D. H. Lawrence's Letters from Paris

Paris est toujours une bonne idée

 

 

I. 

 

I'm currently reading a big fat book of essays, short stories, and poems by over seventy authors, edited by Andrew Gallix [1], exploring the fascination that writers from the English-speaking world have for the French capital - although, as becomes clear, they are mostly enchanted by a myth of their own invention, rather than by Paris as a place that can be located on a map.       

 

Of course, not all English writers have been enamoured with the City of Lights. D. H. Lawrence, for example, famously wrote in 1919: "Paris is a nasty city, and the French are not sympathetic to me." [2] 

 

Five years later, however, Lawrence had changed his tune: "Paris isn't so bad - to me much nicer than London - so agreeably soulless" [3]. 

 

Indeed, in almost every letter and postcard sent to friends at the beginning of 1924 from Le Grand Hotel de Versailles (on the Boulevard Montparnasse), Lawrence was saying much the same thing: "Paris looking rather lovely in sunshine and frost - rather quiet, but really a beautiful city" [4]. He even cheerfully informed his mother-in-law that the Parisians were very friendly [5]. 

But of course, Lawrence being Lawrence, there were sudden (and frequent) mood changes during his short stay in Paris, as this letter written to Catherine Carswell illustrates:

 

"Today it is dark and raining, and very like London. There really isn't much point in coming here. It's the same thing with a small difference. And not really worth taking the journey. Don't you come just now: it would only disappoint you. Myself, I'm just going to sleep a good bit, and let the days go by [...] Paris has great beauty - but all like a museum. And when one looks out of the Louvre windows, one wonders whether the museum is more inside or outside - whether all Paris, with its rue de la Paix and its Champs Elysée isn't also all just a sort of museum." [6]   

Several days later, and Lawrence is still lying low in Paris (whilst Frieda buys some new clothes), but feeling a little more positive about the city and its residents:

 

"Paris is rather nice - the French aren't at all villain, as far as I see them. I must say I like them. They are simpatico. I feel much better since I am here and away from London." [7]

 

And so, despite informing one correspondent that the city was far from gay, Lawrence mostly enjoyed his short stay: "Paris has been quite entertaining for the two weeks: good food and wine, and everything very cheap." [8]  

 

II.

 

In 1929, Lawrence returned to Paris where he oversaw publication of a new (inexpensive) edition of Lady Chatterley's Lover to try and stop the pirated editions then in circulation. If, five years earlier, he had been mostly positive in his response to the city, now he was as hostile to it as he was to most (if not all) large cities:

 

"I don't a bit like Paris. It is nowadays incredibly crowded, incredibly noisy, the air is dirty and simply stinks of petrol, and all the life has gone out of the people. They seem so tired." [9]   

 

Sadly, of course, it was Lawrence himself that the life had almost entirely gone out of; he was to die eleven months after writing this, aged 44, in Vence (428 miles south of Paris, as the crow flies).           

 

 

 

 

Notes

 

[1] Andrew Gallix (ed.), We'll Never Have Paris, (Repeater Books, 2019). If I ever manage to work my way through the book's 560+ pages, then I'll doubtless post some kind of review of the work here on Torpedo the Ark.  

 

[2] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Lady Cynthia Asquith, 18 November 1919, in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, Vol. III, ed. James T. Boulton and Andrew Robertson, (Cambridge University Press, 1984), p. 417. It should be noted that Lawrence hadn't at the time of writing this letter actually been to Paris and wasn't to make his first trip there until January 1924.

[3] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Mark Gertler, [2 February 1924], in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, Vol. IV, ed. Warren Roberts, James T. Boulton and Elzabeth Mansfield, (Cambridge University Press 1987), p. 567. 

[4] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Catherine Carswell, [24 January 1924], in Letters IV, p. 561. 

[5] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Baroness Anna von Richthofen, 24 January 1924, in Letters IV, p. 561. In the original German, Lawrence wrote: "Paris ist doch netter wie London, nicht so dunkel-grau. Die Leute sind ganz freundlich."

[6] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Catherine Carswell, [25 January 1924], in Letters IV, p. 563. 

      This letter has parallels with a short essay written at the same time in which Lawrence asserts that whilst Paris is still monumental and handsome, it has lost its true splendour, and become "like an old, weary peacock that sports a bunch of dirty twigs at its rump, where it used to have a tail". He blames this sorry state of affairs on: (i) modern democracy; (ii) too much bare flesh on display in French works of art;  (iii) an overly rich diet; and (iv) the dead weight of history and its architecture.

      See: 'Paris Letter', in Mornings in Mexico and Other Essays, ed. Virginia Crosswhite Hyde, (Cambridge University Press, 2009), pp. 141-146. The line quoted is on p. 143.

      As for the idea of Paris disappointing: 

      "Disappointment, according to Stuart Walton, is actually a 'constitutive factor' in English speakers' experience of France, and its capital in particular: 'It is at least as important to the British, for example, that Paris should fall short of what they expect of it as it is to the Parisians that les Anglais have never really understood it' (p. 332)." 

      See Andrew Gallix's Introduction to We'll Never Have Paris, p. 29. And see also the TTA post 'On Disappointment' (24 May 2020) in which I discuss (amongst other things) le Syndrome de Paris: click here.  

        

[7] D. H. Lawrence, letter to S. S. Koteliansky, [31 January 1924], in Letters IV, p. 565. 

[8] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Hon. Dorothy Brett, [4 February 1924], in Letters, IV, p. 568. The fact that Paris was, at one time, cheap to live in, was absolutely crucial:

      "Hemingway described Paris in the 1920s as a place 'where there was a way of living well and working, no matter how poor you were', adding that this was 'like having a great treasure given to you'. That treasured lifestyle was swept away by the onset of the Depression in the 1930s. As Will Ashon remarks, artists thrive where there is 'affordable, preferably semi-derelict, real estate. Which is to say, you can't be an artist in Paris, anymore, or in London either' (p. 301)." 

      See Andrew Gallix, Introduction to We'll Never Have Paris, p. 24.   

 

[9] D. H. Lawrence, letter to Lady Ottoline Morrell, 3 April 1929, in The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, Vol. VII, ed. Keith Sagar and James T. Boulton, (Cambridge University Press, 1993), p. 234. 

Those interested in knowing more about Lawrence's 1929 visit to Paris - and how his stay at 66, Boulevard de Montparnasse has now been officially commememorated with a plaque - might like to read Catherine Brown's blog post of 29 May 2019, available on her website: click here.     

 

And those interested in Lawrence's wider relationship with French culture, might like to read the following essay by Ginette Katz-Roy: 'D. H. Lawrence and "That Beastly France"', in The D. H. Lawrence Review, Vol. 23, No. 2/3, (1991), pp. 143-156. This essay is available to download or read online via JSTOR: click here.   

 

 

Musical bonus: the debut single from Adam and the Ants, Young Parisians (Decca, 1978): click here.