Showing posts with label sig news. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sig news. Show all posts

28 Jul 2024

Notes on SIG News Issue 3: From Bomber Jackets to the Joy of Punxploitation

It's all working well for him and it's all going smoothly for McQueen
 
NB: this post is a continuation from part one: click here
 
 
V. 

The MA-1 - or bomber jacket, as it is better known - was a popular fashion staple in the 1980s; particularly with skinheads, who loved both its utility and hypermasculinity (as did certain gay clones). 
 
However, as Ian Trowell reminds us, what imbued this garment with such great "subcultural crossover potential" [1] was the fact it evaded fixed meaning. This also helps explain its strange longevity.
 
That and the fact that what's good enough for Steve McQueen, is, as a rule, good enough for anyone (although, for the record, I never owned a bomber jacket and wouldn't have dreamed of wearing such). 
 
 
VI.
 
Mike Wyeld and Antony Price are both concerned with subcultural politics. 
 
The former asks whether punk or acid house, for example, has resulted in any long lasting political change. I think we all know the answer to this, even Wyeld, although he wants to keep the dream alive so can't quite bring himself to openly admit it hasn't.
 
Price, on the other hand, is adamant that rave continues to offer a form of "collective resistance to the oppressive pervasiveness of capitalist realism" [2]
 
Unfortunately, Jean Baudrillard has indicated how and why the very idea of resistance in a transpolitical era characterised by the techno-social immersion of the individual rather than their alienation, has become problematic and even a little passé. Speaking in an interview with François L'Yvonnet, Baudrillard says: 
 
"I'm a bit resistant to the idea of resistance, since it belongs to the world of critical, rebellious, subversive thought, and that is all rather outdated. If you have a conception of integral reality, of a reality that's absorbed all negativity, the idea of resisting it, of disputing its validity, of setting one value against another and countering one system with another, seems pious and illusory." [3]
 
Of course, that isn't to say that there cannot exist singular spaces which, at a particular moment, constitute themselves as alternative worlds with their own set of rules. And that's pretty much how Price describes nightclubs:
 
"At their best, nightclubs are places for experimentation, for inclusiveness and exclusiveness, a place to try out different personas, to challenge sexual identity and orientation through both individual and collective freedoms, a space to move outside of the confines of society." [4] 

The problem is, anyone who has actually been to a nightclub recognises that this is mostly bullshit. And even if nightclubs were (at their best) heterotopic wonderlands of transgression and otherness, they still wouldn't offer the kind of head-on socio-political resistance that Price imagines and advocates. 
 
 
VII.

According to Madeline Lucarelli, the practice of witchcraft has been transformed via the establishment of online communities. No longer concerned with the casting of spells and the harnessing of supernatural forces, witchcraft is now all about personal growth and spiritual freedom [5].  
 
Alas, if Lucarelli is to be believed, witchcraft has therefore become a depressingly tame affair; no sex, no scourging, no satanic ritual ... The Dionysian frenzy of the orgy and the blasphemous humour of the black mass appears to have given way to a New Age theology that upholds many of the same woke values that any good liberal might recognise. 
 
Wicca, I'm sorry to say, is now a humanism. And the witch, far from being a figure who inspires terror or offers resistance to hegemonic society, is now merely a Twilight-reading Barbie Goth hardly deserving of the name.
 
 
VIII.
 
Finally [6], we come to Russ Bestley's article on the joy of punxploitation and his deep fascination with Plastic Bertrand's international hit single 'Ça plane pour moi' (1977).
 
Whilst Bestley struggles to say what, exactly, first attracted him to this song, I think I understand (and to an extent share) his love of those songs which have all the energy of punk but which are not weighed down by the spirit of gravity; songs which privilege the joy and laughter of pop over the austere monarchy of rock [7].

Bestley recognises that fun is a vital element of popular culture, even if it is often valued negatively by those commentators whose language succumbs all too easily to moralising imperatives; i.e., the kind of people who are embarrassed by the crude and shallow entertainments enjoyed by the working-class and who will never accept the fact that 'Friggin' in the Riggin'' was a bigger selling-single than 'Holidays in the Sun'.
 
I agree with Bestley that 'Ça plane pour moi' amusingly manages to "embody so much of what 'punk' set out to achieve" [8]. So click the link above, roll around with your cat on the bed, and enjoy!
 
 
Notes
 
[1] Ian Trowell, 'Bomber Crew: Storying the Eighties Through the MA-1', SIG News 3 (1 September, 2024), p. 12.  

[2] Antony Price, 'Rave On', SIG News 3 (1 September, 2024), p. 30.
 
[3] Jean Baudrillard, Fragments, trans. Chris Turner (Routledge, 2004), p. 71.
 
[4] Antony Price, 'Rave On', SIG News 3 (1 September, 2024), p. 30.
 
[5] See Madeline Lucarelli, 'The Body, Broom and Sins of the Witch', SIG News 3 (1 September, 2024), p. 22.
 
[6] It should be noted that there are numerous other articles in SIG News 3 that I have not discussed. These include Rachel Brett's piece on fashion's relationship with the colour black (a dark history I have myself written on here); Isabella Chiara Vicco's piece on Jerry Rubin and his metamorphosis from yippie to yuppie; and Shijiao Kou's musicological analysis of 'Hong Kong Garden' (the debut single by Siouxsie and the Banshees). Oh, and there's also my piece on the revolt into red-trousered style.   

[7] The phrase 'spirit of gravity' is borrowed from Nietzsche (Thus Spoke Zarathustra) and the phrase 'austere monarchy' is borrowed from Foucault (The History of Sexuality 1). I have written on rockism contra poptimism and in defence of fun elsewhere on Torpedo the Ark: click here and here.

[8] Russ Bestley, 'Ça Plane Pour Moi': The Joy of Punxploitation', SIG News 3 (1 September, 2024), p. 27.  
 
 

Notes on SIG News Issue 3: From Girlypop to Reconceptualising the Skateboard Graphic

SIG News Issue 3
(September 1st, 2024)
 
 
I.
 
For those who don't know, SIG is an acronym for the Subcultures Interest Group; an informal collective operating out of the University of the Arts London (UAL) concerned with what we might briefly describe as the politics of style.
 
They have conveniently published a ten-point manifesto, which, amongst other things, declares the group's resistance to temporal colonisation, that is to say, the imposition of a perpetual present in which it becomes increasingly difficult to imagine a future (or remember a past) that is radically different.
 
Via a number of disruptive techniques, including the reversal of old ideas and subcultural practices into the future, members of SIG attempt to live yesterday tomorrow and loosen the "aura of necessity and sanctity surrounding categories of the present" [1]
 
It's more a form of retrofuturism than nostalgia: "The pull of the future informs our drawing from the passed to provide the necessary soil and toil of the present" [2], as point 3 of the SIG Manifesto puts it.
 
Anyway, the third issue of SIG News (cover dated 1 September 2024) is out now and I thought it might be fun to take a look ...
 
 
II.    
 
The issue opens with a piece by Ross Schartel on developments in the world of girlypop following the social media phenomenon of #barbiecore. 
 
Now, I have to admit, I'm not really up to speed with these microtrends driven by TikTok; nor had I ever heard of Chappell Roan. 
 
Nevertheless, I was interested to learn of attempts to reclaim the hyperfeminine, even if Chappell Roan is clearly a pop persona heavily influenced by drag performance and rooted in queer cynicism rather than anything affirmative of the fact that girls at their most phenomenal and inhuman are extraordinary events whose individuation doesn't proceed via subjectivity, but by pure haecceity. 
 
In other words, girls are defined not by their girlyness or material composition (sugar and spice), but by the intensive affects of which they are capable. 
 
 
III.
 
Moving on, there's a nice piece on the British rockabilly revival of the late 1970s and early '80s by Jake Hawkes. 
 
I'm not sure, however, about the truth value of his claim that rockabilly was "the most forward-thinking subculture" of the period and when he writes that it feels "closer to the zeitgeist today" [3] one can't help asking the very same question that Mencius Moldbug once put to Richard Dawkins: What, exactly, is this Zeitgeist thing?
 
There's also an easy read article by Paul Tornbohm on London's easy listening scene in the 1990s, something I missed but would very much have enjoyed being part of had I only known about it, loving as I do TV theme tunes and the delights of Gallic pop, for example.
 
I wasn't quite sure what to make of Nael Ali's piece - 'The Goats of War Metal' - though I smiled when he conceded that the theme of gender politics in relation to his area of research "might be a topic" [4] worthy of future discussion - I would say so!
 
I would also suggest that Ali read the following by D. H. Lawrence:
 
Firstly, the poem 'He-Goat', in which Lawrence explores the wilful egotism of a male goat and the destructive aspects of libidinous desire [5]; and secondly, a letter written to Aldous Huxley [28 Oct 1928] in which Lawrence dismisses art which tries desperately to be transgressive as romantic and fascistic; a pornographic mix of the sentimental and the sensational. 
 
He writes: "if you only palpitate to murder, suicide, and rape in their various degrees [...] it becomes a phantasmal boredom and produces ultimately inertia [...] and final atrophy of the feelings" [6], which will of course result in war.  

 
IV.
 
Sadly, I just missed the skateboard craze of the 1980s: when I was a nipper, we used to make do with a book and skate to race down Daventry Road. 
 
Nevertheless, I did appreciate Joel Lardner's argument in his article on skateboard graphics that "visual interruption and glitch work call forth the distinct performative model in which these graphics are received, reflecting the inevitable accident, an ever-present aspect of skateboard practice" [7] - that's a clever insight. 
 
 
Notes
 
[1] William E. Connolly, Political Theory and Modernity (Basil Blackwell, 1988), p. ix.  

[2] The SIG Manifesto can be found on the back cover of SIG News 3 (1 Sept 2024). Those who wish for more information on the Subcultures Interest Group can contact k.quinn@fashion.arts.ac.uk or r.bestley@lcc.ac.uk 

[3] Jake Hawkes, SIG News 3 (UAL, 1 September 2024), p. 5. 
 
[4] Nael Ali, SIG News 3 (UAL, 1 September 2024), p. 9.  

[5] D. H. Lawrence, 'He-Goat', The Poems, Vol. 1, ed. Christopher Pollnitz (Cambridge University Press, 2013), pp. 334-336. The poem can also be found on allpoetry.com: click here.  

[6] D. H. Lawrence, The Letters of D. H. Lawrence, Vol. VI, ed. James T. Boulton (Cambridge University Press, 1991), p. 600.

[7] Joel Lardner, SIG News 3 (UAL, 1 September 2024), p.10.
 
 
This post continues in part two: click here.